Soundproofing Guide
Practical ways to reduce noise in your home, starting with the cheapest fixes that usually help most: windows, doors and gaps.
Which fix to try first
| Type of noise | Try first |
|---|---|
| Road traffic | Seal window frames, then secondary glazing or heavy curtains on the road-facing side |
| Aircraft | Windows first, then loft insulation; check for an airport insulation grant |
| Trains | Windows and gaps on the rail-facing side, as for road noise |
| Neighbours through a wall | Seal gaps around sockets and skirting, then consider an added wall layer |
| Footsteps from above or below | Acoustic underlay under carpet or flooring |
| Noise inside a hallway or between rooms | Door seals and a solid-core door |
Windows: your first priority
Windows are usually the weakest point in a wall for sound. Glass is lighter than brick or block, and old frames often have gaps that let sound through with the air.
Secondary glazing adds a second pane inside the existing window with an air gap between them. It is one of the most effective ways to reduce outside noise through a window, and it does not change the outside of the building, which is why it is often used in listed buildings. DIY magnetic kits cost less; professionally fitted units seal better.
Acoustic curtains are a quick, renter-friendly improvement. They work best when heavy, floor-length and wide enough to cover the frame with no gaps at the sides.
Doors: seal the gaps
Doors often have gaps at the bottom and sides, and sound travels through any gap that air can pass through. A drop seal or door sweep at the bottom and perimeter seals around the frame are cheap and quick to fit.
Hollow-core internal doors are light and let more sound through than solid-core doors. If a hallway or neighbouring room is the problem, a solid-core door with good seals makes a bigger difference than either change alone.
Walls: add mass and seal
Thin partition walls pass noise easily. Blocking sound through a wall needs extra mass, airtightness and, for the best results, a separate layer that is not rigidly fixed to the existing wall. Options, roughly from simplest to most involved:
- Seal the gaps first: back-to-back sockets, gaps under skirting boards and around pipes leak sound. Acoustic sealant is cheap and easy.
- Acoustic plasterboard: denser boards added over the existing wall add mass.
- Mass loaded vinyl: a heavy flexible sheet fixed behind a new board layer.
- Independent stud wall: a new wall built in front of the old one with an air gap and insulation. The most effective option, but it takes floor space and usually needs a builder.
Acoustic foam panels reduce echo inside a room, which helps a home office or music room sound better, but they do not block noise coming through a wall.
Floors: stop impact noise
Footsteps and other impact noise travel through the floor structure. Acoustic underlay under carpet or hard flooring is the main fix. If you prefer hard floors, choose an underlay sold for impact noise reduction and compare the impact rating (often shown as ΔLw) between products.
Quick wins on a small budget
- Draught-proof windows and doors with seal strips and brush seals.
- Fit a door sweep to your bedroom door.
- Rearrange furniture: put full bookshelves against shared walls and move the bed away from the wall that faces the noise.
- Use a white noise machine at night to mask traffic and other intermittent noise.
- Hang heavy curtains on the windows that face the noise.
If the noise comes from a neighbour or a business, you may be able to have it dealt with at source. See how to make a noise complaint, and keep a noise diary while you try these fixes.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the cheapest way to soundproof a room?
Start by sealing gaps. Draught strips around windows and doors, a seal under the door and acoustic sealant around frames are cheap and often make a noticeable difference, because sound leaks through any gap that air can pass through. Heavy, floor-length curtains on the noisy side come next.
Does secondary glazing really work?
Secondary glazing is one of the most effective ways to cut outside noise through a window, because it adds a second pane with an air gap behind the existing window. A wider gap and a good seal help most. DIY magnetic kits are a lower-cost option; professionally fitted units seal better.
How do I soundproof a bedroom from outside noise?
Deal with the window first, since it is usually the weakest point: seal the frame, then add secondary glazing or heavy acoustic curtains. Seal around and under the door, and move the bed away from the wall that faces the noise if you can. A white noise machine can help mask noise that remains at night.
Do acoustic panels reduce noise from outside?
No. Acoustic foam panels reduce echo and reverberation inside a room. To block noise coming in from outside or through a wall you need mass and airtight seals, such as secondary glazing, solid doors, sealed gaps or an added wall layer.
Related guides
- Flight path checker: airport tracking tools and insulation schemes
- Motorway noise: motorway corridors and National Highways contacts
- Railway noise: mainline and freight railway noise
- How to make a noise complaint: council, police and fireworks rules
- Decibel guide: what different dB levels sound like